Hydration vs. Moisturizing: Is One Better Than The Other?
Living in an arid, high desert climate, hydration is a big topic of discussion with new and existing clients alike. A large portion of my clientele say they identify as a dry skin type (lacking oil) when they fill out their intake forms when in actuality they’re usually dehydrated (lacking water). When I suggest a moisturizer with different ingredients a common response is that the patient drinks a ton of water daily, which is great but not the be-all and end-all for well hydrated skin. While proper hydration is absolutely vital to your overall health, there’s no ideal number of glasses of water to drink in order to have clear, supple hydrated skin.
In the skin care world, moisturizing and hydrating are often used interchangeably but are actually two different functions. Moisturizing focuses on locking in moisture to build up an individual’s barrier function with the use of emollient and occlusive ingredients. Hydration is about attracting water to the cells internally and with humectants like hyaluronic acid. Properly hydrated skin needs a multi-pronged approach, both inside and outside, to work efficiently and look its best.
Water makes up the majority of all cells and tissue in a person’s body and at the same time plays an important role in so many bodily functions, including cell homeostasis, thermoregulation, and maintaining skin’s barrier function.
Skin is hydrated internally by drawing fluid from the capillary blood flow in the skin. If a person is dehydrated, there isn’t enough fluid to pull from resulting in dull skin appearance, more prominent lines and wrinkles, and rough texture.
Figuring out the ideal amount of water to drink proves to be a bit difficult. A small study of 49 people was performed to see if drinking more was beneficial to the skin in general. The conclusion was “…in this study, it is clear that higher water inputs in a regular diet might positively impact normal skin physiology, in particular in those individuals with lower daily water consumptions” (Palma, et al.). Even though they concluded more water does have an impact, they didn’t specify how much is the “right” amount. On the flip side, a different paper says there’s no convincing health benefits with higher fluid intake. It’s all about which paper you read.
So, what good is it if you have high moisture content but the skin’s barrier function is compromised and allows this water to evaporate?
Your skin is set up like a brick and mortar wall. The cells are the bricks and free fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, are the mortar. This barrier keeps bad stuff, e.g., disease, out and good stuff, e.g., water, in. When there are cracks in the mortar, so to speak, environmental pathogens can creep in causing irritation and transepidermal water loss equating to dehydrated skin. Topically fortifying this layer with appropriate ingredients like ceramides enables the skin to be more adept at doing its job properly.
Some causes of barrier function breakdown are exposure to extreme temperatures both hot and cold, using harsh soaps or detergents, over-exfoliation, and taking long, hot baths or showers. Some peoples’ skin can also be genetically prone to drying out because of atopic dermatitis, eczema, or medical conditions like thyroid disease.
When hydration and moisturization are all adequate and working well in tandem, skin will show it outwardly. It will snap back more efficiently with improved elasticity. The plumped up cells will reduce the appearance of fine lines temporarily giving a softer, smoother look. Hydrated skin also has a more balanced oil production. When skin is dehydrated it can overcompensate by producing more oil which is why people mistake their skin type for oily when in fact it isn’t. Most importantly the skin will be able to protect itself against pathogens and aggressors since it’s functioning better internally and externally.
In conclusion, ingesting water is imperative for a healthy, well-functioning body but the skin is not the first place it ultimately goes to. In addition to drinking ample water, it is important to find a moisturizer you like to help aid in repairing your skin and retaining water. If you are unsure about what products would be ideal for you, call Aesthetics by Design in Englewood, Colorado for a skin care consult.
References
Groth, Leah, et al. “Can Drinking Water Clear Your Skin?” EverydayHealth.com, https://www.everydayhealth.com/healthy-skin/can-you-hydrate-your-way-to-healthy-skin/.
“Hydration vs. Moisture: How to Know What Your Skin Needs.” Medical News Today, MediLexicon International, https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/hydration-vs-moisture. Medically reviewed by Reema Patel, MPA, PA-C — By Mary West on February 27, 2022
Kanwar, A. J. “Skin Barrier Function.” The Indian Journal of Medical Research, Medknow Publications & Media Pvt Ltd, Jan. 2018, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5967208/.
“Moisturizers: Do They Work?” Harvard Health, 29 May 2019, https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/moisturizers-do-they-work.
Palma, Lídia, et al. “Dietary Water Affects Human Skin Hydration and Biomechanics.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 3 Aug. 2015, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4529263/.
PMC, Europe. “How Much Water Do We Really Need to Drink?” Europe PMC, 1 Jan. 2010, https://europepmc.org/article/med/20356431.
Rodrigues, Luís, et al. “Dietary Water Affects Human Skin Hydration and Biomechanics.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2015, p. 413., https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s86822.
Watson, Stephanie. “Dos and Don'ts of Skin Hydration.” WebMD, WebMD, https://www.webmd.com/beauty/features/skin-hydration. Reviewed by Stephanie S. Gardner, MD on July 13, 2021