Physical vs. Chemical Sunscreens: What’s the Difference and Which is Right for you?
Ah sunscreen- the unsung hero of our skincare routines. It’s the barrier between our precious skin and the relentless sun, the silent guardian against premature wrinkles, sunspots, and, let’s not forget, skin cancer. But in the varied ocean of SPF options, two titans emerge: physical and chemical sunscreens. So, which one should you slather on before stepping into the sun’s embrace?
Physical Sunscreens
When physical sunscreens initially became popular, it was often said that these formulations reflected away the sun’s rays like a tiny army of mirrors on the skin. Containing active ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (inorganic), they sit atop the skin forming a barrier that “reflects” UVA and UVB rays away. With today’s micro- and nano-particles the product still sits on the skin, but this isn’t as accurate an analogy as it used to be, but that's another conversation.
Pros:
Immediate Protection: These products begin working as soon as they are applied to the skin.
Gentle on Skin: Physical sunscreens show less of a potential for skin irritations.
Versatile: These ingredients can either be used as the sole active in a product or they can be combined with each other or with chemical sunscreen ingredients.
Broad Spectrum: They offer high SPF broad spectrum coverage.
Less Likely to Clog Pores: This makes physical sunscreens a very good option for acne-prone people.
Cons:
White Cast: Traditionally, this is one of the main reasons people avoided physical sunscreens. With today’s micronization technology, physical sunscreens have become more transparent while still maintaining their UV protective properties.
Texture: These products can feel a tad thicker and not as cosmetically elegant on the skin.
Chemical Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain organic carbon based compounds such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate. These ingredients work by absorbing light and converting it into heat that’s released from skin. It’s like having a sponge that soaks up all the radiation and then wrings it out.
Pros:
Easy to Apply: Usually chemical sunscreens are thinner, easier to apply.
Broadspectrum: These ingredients also provide broad spectrum UV protection.
No White Cast: Having no zinc or titanium dioxide means no unsightly white cast, especially on darker skin types.
Water-Resistant Formulas: Chemical sunscreens offer better water-resistance and maintain their effectiveness longer when exposed to sweat and water.
Cons:
Potentially irritating: These ingredients have a higher risk of causing irritation or allergic reaction.
Wait period: Chemical blocks typically need about 20 minutes to absorb and be fully effective.
Systemic concerns: There might be some concerns of whether or not these ingredients are absorbed into the bloodstream.
What Sunscreen Is Better?
Over the years, it seems like doctors have learned more towards physical blocks, but when it comes down to it, the best sunscreen is the one you will wear daily. Find a texture that works for your skin type and needs. A popular option in our office is EltaMD UV Clear. It has both physical and chemical filters with a transparent, non-greasy finish. This is one step that you should not overlook especially if you’re investing in in-office skin treatments. According to the Skin Cancer Association, about 90% of nonmelanoma skin cancers are associated with UV radiation exposure from the sun. “One study found that regular daily use of an SPF 15 or higher sunscreen reduces the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by about 40 percent when used as directed.”
Are Sunscreens Safe?
There’s been a surge of sunscreen misinformation on social media, often fueled by misinterpreted studies or missing context. A frequently referenced study involving oxybenzone, a common sunscreen ingredient, did show potential endocrine effects, but only when rats were fed extremely high doses far beyond anything humans would be exposed to through normal use. While certain ingredients have sparked concerns about skin sensitivity or hormone disruption, decades of research consistently support the safety and effectiveness of sunscreen when used as directed. In fact, daily sunscreen use is one of the most powerful ways to protect your skin from premature aging, sunburn, and most importantly, skin cancer—including melanoma. The minimal risks are easily managed by choosing high-quality sunscreens that suit your skin type and lifestyle. For optimal skin health and to protect the investment you’ve made in your treatments, daily sun protection is not just safe—it’s essential.
In the end, both chemical and physical sunscreens offer effective protection against harmful UV rays—it just comes down to what works best for your skin and lifestyle. Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin and convert UV rays into heat, making them a great option for daily wear under makeup or for those who prefer a lightweight, invisible finish. Physical sunscreens, on the other hand, sit on the surface of the skin and reflect UV rays, making them ideal for sensitive, acne-prone, or post-treatment skin. Whether you choose chemical, physical, or a hybrid formula, the most important thing is finding a sunscreen you enjoy using every single day. Your skin—and your future self—will thank you.
Are you Ready to Begin Your Skincare Journey?
The board certified doctors and highly trained parimedical aestheticians at Aesthetics by Design are ready to help you achieve the results you desire, simply contact us and begin your skincare journey today.