Occlusives and Moisturizers: Understanding the Difference for Better Skin Health
When clients come to me asking about “occlusives” in their skincare routine, I always smile a little - it tells me they’re paying attention to ingredients or they saw a video on social media about “slugging.” Either way, it’s a step toward healthier, better looking skin. But here’s a truth I’ve learned in my 20 years as an aesthetician: an occlusive is not a replacement for a moisturizer. They both have their place in a routine, but they work in fundamentally different ways, and expecting one to do the job of the other can leave your skin dehydrated, frustrated, or even irritated.
Let’s break down what each does in straightforward, no-marketing-spin language so you can understand why both are important and why one can’t just replace the other.
What is an Occlusive?
An occlusive ingredient forms a physical barrier on the surface of the skin. Think of it like a protective seal - it slows down evaporation of water from your skin by acting as a barrier between the skin and the outside world. My favorite analogy is plastic wrap on a bowl. Common occlusives include petrolatum (yes, good old petroleum jelly), beeswax, mineral oil, silicones like dimethicone, and various plant-derived oils and waxes.
This is why occlusives feel heavy or greasy. They aren’t sinking in so much as sitting on top. Their job isn’t to give moisture to your skin; it’s to keep the moisture you already have from escaping. That’s an incredibly valuable function, especially if you’re dealing with very dry or compromised skin, extreme weather, or healing from procedures that strip the barrier. But it’s only half the puzzle.
What do Moisturizers Actually do?
A true moisturizer, whether it’s a lotion, cream, or balm, contains multiple types of ingredients designed to improve hydration and skin health. These generally include:
Humectants, like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which attract water into the skin and help keep it there;
Emollients, like squalane or ceramides, which fill in the spaces between skin cells to make skin feel smoother and improve barrier function;
And often occlusives, which help seal everything in.
The key point is this: a moisturizer doesn’t just seal moisture in, it actually helps create and retain hydration by working from the inside out. Occlusives only work from the outside in. That’s why an occlusive on its own, though helpful, doesn’t replace the need for a moisturizer.
Here’s a Simple Analogy…
Here’s a simple analogy I like to use with my clients: think of your skin like a sponge. A humectant is like adding water to the sponge, an emollient is like smoothing out and repairing the sponge’s fibers, and an occlusive is like putting plastic wrap around it to keep that water from evaporating. If all you do is wrap a dry sponge in plastic, it’s still dry. Likewise, slathering an occlusive on thirsty skin without first adding and binding moisture won’t actually hydrate your skin.
And that’s where the misunderstanding sometimes comes in. When people hear that occlusives help with dryness, they assume (incorrectly) that this means occlusives moisturize. They don’t; they protect what’s already there. This is why you’ll often see experts recommend layering an occlusive over a moisturizer or a humectant product: apply the moisturizer to increase hydration and improve barrier function, then use an occlusive to lock those benefits in.
In clinical dermatology, this distinction matters. Moisturizers are formulated to address underlying dehydration and barrier dysfunction, while occlusives are tools to support that process, especially when skin is severely dry or when environmental factors are especially harsh. Dermatologists and skincare professionals alike emphasize that occlusives can’t add moisture - they only prevent loss.
Let Me Share a Little Story…
Let me share a little story from the treatment room to illustrate this: a client once came in during the winter, complaining of persistent flaking and tightness despite slathering on a heavy occlusive balm every night. She thought that because it felt rich, it should be enough. But when we looked at her routine, she had no humectant or emollient products - just the heavy, gooey balm on dry skin. We switched her to a routine that included a humectant serum and a gentle, ceramide-rich moisturizer before sealing with the occlusive. Within a week, the flaking had eased and the tightness was gone.
That’s because her skin wasn’t actually hydrated, she was just sealing in dryness. Occlusives can reduce visible dryness temporarily, but without adding and retaining water deeper in the skin, they can’t truly fix the problem.
Another misconception I hear often is that certain oils, like rosehip or jojoba, are “hydrating” because they feel luxurious on the skin. In reality, oils are primarily emollients or mild occlusives; they help with texture and sealing, but they don’t pull water into the skin the way humectants do. Cosmetic chemists even point out that calling oils “hydrating” is technically inaccurate. Hydration means water content, and oils don’t contain water.
Now, I want to be Clear…
Now, I want to be clear: occlusives absolutely have their place. For dry, cracked skin, compromised barriers, eczema flare-ups, or post-procedure care (think chemical peels or lasers), I frequently use occlusive ointments like petrolatum to protect and support healing. These ingredients are so effective at preventing transepidermal water loss that petrolatum is often called the gold standard occlusive in dermatology. There’s a reason that Vaseline has been around for over 150 years.
But in those cases, the occlusive is part of a multistep strategy and not the sole step. They’re like the final coat of armor after you’ve done all the restorative work underneath.
So what’s the takeaway? If you’re aiming for healthy, hydrated skin, you want to think holistically about your routine. A moisturizer isn’t just something with a pretty label - it’s a blend of ingredients designed to bring water into your skin, improve barrier function, and hold that water there. An occlusive can boost those effects by sealing them in, but it can’t produce them on its own.
If you only use an occlusive, you’re essentially building a roof over an empty foundation: it might protect what’s underneath, but it won’t create anything new. And because skin’s ability to retain moisture is what keeps it supple, calm, and resilient, skipping the foundation is a mistake I see all too often.
My advice? If your formula doesn’t include humectants and emollients , or if your skin still feels dry after application, don’t rely on an occlusive alone. Look for a moisturizer formulated to both hydrate and nourish, then lock it in with an occlusive if needed. Your skin will thank you.
Sarah Rutherford
Paramedical Aesthetician
Sarah Rutherford is a well-respected veteran in the skin care industry, Rutherford began her aesthetics career in Indianapolis as an apprentice at a large day spa under the tutelage of French aestheticians. Since relocating to Colorado, she successfully owned and operated her own skin care practice for ten years focusing on providing attentive, custom client care. Among her proficient skills and certifications, she counts Microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning, CO2 Laser Resurfacing, lunchtime as well as more intense Chemical Peels, product knowledge, Laser Hair Removal, Facial Massage, and Skin Analysis. Now, after over fourteen years in the industry, she brings her holistic approach to skin wellness and full medical aesthetic services to Aesthetics by Design.
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